Showing posts with label FASHION. Show all posts
Showing posts with label FASHION. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Silvia Bianchi


Silvia Blanchi is a 28-year-old artist originally from Pisa Italy, now living in Stockholm. She graduated with a bachelor and an MA in Semiotics in Italy. Silvia does an amazing amount of great projects, from fashion to digital art, installations and publishing. Her boyfriend Ricardo Juarez is her work partner; the couple is behind the art project and tumblr Barriobajero. I interviewed Silvia about her different projects and her wonderful sense of aesthetic. See more;

▼ Read the interview ▼

Dora Moutot (DM) interviews Silvia Bianchi (SB)

DM: Let’s talk about Shallowww, your online clothing store! Where do you find your design inspirations?
SB: We are actually three people working at Shallowww. I just designed the first sweater, the Internet one which turned fast into a best seller. Then we decided to create a brand out of it. Our inspiration comes from the Internet and its semiology. Our aim is to translate the 2.0 aesthetic and the digital imagination that surround us to textile production. We ironically play with the cold essence of technology making warm sweaters and apparel.

Shallowww Clothing only distributes online and diffuses its products like memes that is pretty consistent. The collection is limited and printed on demand, respecting ethical and local production standards. We only produce in Spain and Italy.
DM: One of your designs is an Arabic typographic print on a t-shirt. It reminds me of an article I wrote about “the muslim trance” tumblr trend.  http://www.lagazettedumauvaisgout.com/original/trend-muslim-trance/?lang=en
SB: I read that article and I loved it! We are expanding our symbols research to other alphabets and codes, we are fascinated by our generation trend to take religious symbols and contemporary logos and mix them all together, just caring about how they look and not about what they mean. The funny thing is that the Arabic word on the long sleeve shirt means Logotype but we didn't tell it on the website and we got a lot of emails from people afraid of what it says. It was a nice experiment.



DM: Why do you think this Arabic typography is so appealing right now amongst the Tumblr teenagers? Why did you decide to use it?
SB: Well I think its maybe because of artists like M.I.A, Fatima Al Qadiri or Slavs and Tatars, I was actually preparing a Vj Set for Fatima Al Qadiri when I began to make stuff with Arabics symbols. Trends grow and raise trough images feed nowadays, just think about how social network have changed in the last few years and how Instagram or Tumblr work. Now we just look at images, we get on touch with them trough fast feeds and we get fed up fast with visual inputs. We just look at the signifier but we have no time go to trough the signified, we recognize something as cool because we have seen it before, its a sort of digital memory game. We could define this trends as visual isotopies, basically forms that our brain recognize as redundant and begin to like, I think this is the reason why Tumblr has influenced our imagination that hard.



DM: How do you feel about tumblr trends? Do you think they affect the mainstream fashion world? How do you think the Internet and the digital are going to change fashion?
SB: They already changed fashion world. Jeremy Scott was just the first one who copied what internet artists have been doing during the last years five years and there are loads of brands that like Shallowww are inspired by this baroque 2.0 aestethic. Also art and fashion distribution have changed a lot during the last years, you can make an artwork and diffuse it like a meme all over the world and the same with a sweater or a t-shirt.



DM: Your also create very surrealistic installations. Can you tell us a bit about Caravanart?
SB: Caravanart was an amazing experience. We visited three different cities and had the chance to interact with three completely different landscapes and crowds. Talking about images feeds thay had big influence on my work. I remember that I had a sort of visual obsession for mylar sun shades when I was in Zaragoza, I made this internet reasearch http://advancedimagesearch.tumblr.com/page/12 and then I got one to in a shop. I worked mixing digital video and objects I found in the derelict places I visited.



DM: Your work seems to be quite focused on creating digital textures. We can see it your installations but also in your videos such as One-minute suit, or in the artwork you produced for your own fanzine called “awkward surface”. What is the inspiration for these textures? What kind of software do you use? How do you create them?
SB: I create them with Photoshop mostly, I generally take pictures or video frames and then Photoshop them to get digital/analog textures. Nature and surfaces are my main inspiration. I use water, stones and minerals.
DM: There is an 80’s/90’s kind of feel in your work. Does a particular art movement in time inspire you? Memphis Milano maybe?
SB: Definitely. I'm a such a big fan of Sottsass, Mendini and Du Pasquier. A couple of years ago I made a tribute to their work for the Reggio Emilio Museum “Spazio Gerra”. Memphis has a strong influence on my work when it comes to textures and patterns.



DM: Barriobajero is the project you’re doing with your boyfriend, Ricardo Juarez. What is this project about?
SB: Barriobajero is an art platform and experimental creative collective established in early 2010. We’re dedicated to curating, art direction, design, events and consulting services like fashion stylism. We are currently based in Stockholm, working as resident curators at Revenue S:T 79, a new studio/gallery space/club/ we recently opened in the city center. Our other ongoing projects include Shallowww and the self-publishing event series Stacks.
DM: Favourite blogs?

DM: Artists we should know about?

DM: What are the 3 favourite books/ fanzines/ magazines that you possess?
SB: The Most Expensive Restaurant Ever Built - SHP4







Interview by Dora Moutot for Triangulation Blog - January 2013 
Dora Moutot is a young journalist specialized in fashion within the digital culture. She is the founder of La Gazette du Mauvais Gout where she writes about bad taste, eccentric and kitsch trends. www.doramauvaisgout.tumblr.com



Thursday, December 13, 2012

Syn chron by Alba Prat



"Syn chron" is a beautiful collection designed by Alba Prat, a recent graduated in fashion design at the Universität der Künste, Berlin.

"The title of the collection Syn chron derives from synchronization, a common feature of the works of the German artist Carsten Nicolai. My collection is inspired by them. Known for his aesthetics of precision, his work lies at the intersection of art and science. He unites both fields together in form of sculpture, light and sound installations creating a minimal, cold and technical atmosphere.

My approach to Carsten Nicolai is through his visualizations of sound phenomena. The questioning of what is heard and what is seen is a recurring subject in his art. It is a play between the visible and the invisible where scientific methods of measurements of the laboratory are turned into visual interpretations. His works are explorations of the organizational principles found in nature. It is a world in which even the largest conceivable amount of chaos is subject to order." - Alba Prat. See more;

"Clothes are a barrier between the body and the environment, a layer that protects and covers the body. In order to make this layer more transparent, I have exposed something personal and natural from my inside. I have recorded my heartbeat in two different situations and used special software to visualize it in distinctive abstract forms, which are the basis of my prints. These define the two moods of my collection. One is more elegant and calm and the other is rather sportive and bright. The recording for the first print took place in a quiet situation. Through the graphic representation of its spectrogram I created the luminous digital print. For the other, I recorded my heartbeat directly after doing exercise. The transformation of the audio file into bits, the most basic digital data, is used to create the jacquard pattern." - Alba Prat.

Credits: Photgraphy by Alexandra Waespi - Hair & Make-up Tatjana Kühr, Model: Rosalie (Izaio)

Click images to enlarge_


Monday, December 3, 2012

Masha Reva



Masha Reva is a 25-year-old fashion designer originally from Odessa, Ukraine. She graduated from the Kiev National University of Technology and Design with a MA in fashion. She is now living in London, studying Women’s Wear at Central St Martins. Her new collection in collaboration with Syndicated of Kiev is called Botanical Layers. The collection is inspired by nature and GUI from Photoshop. The prints are juxtaposing social networks and natural environment creating a metaphorical botanical garden of Photoshop layers and loading bars. See  more;

Dora Moutot (DM) interviews Masha Reva (MR) / Click imges to enlarge
Sweatshirts of the collection are available on sndct.com

DM: Hi Masha!
You explained that the visual stream of information on social network and blogs inspired your previous very opulent ” Merging 2012” last collection. Were the prints made of Internet images that you recycled? How did you work on this previous collection?
MR: The project started at was a time when my friends and I were in the need for some crazy projects without any boundaries. We created more of an art concept than a fashion lookbook. My idea began from a book I found while I was in New York. The concept came together with the help of this book and images found on the Internet. I created the textile prints and we organized the shooting in details with the help of Julie Pelipas, an amazing stylist.

(Image below is from the previous collection, see the whole MERGIN collection here)



DM: In your new collection “Botanical layers”, you seem to be inspired by the Photoshop interface. How important is the Internet and the computer in your work? How do you use both?
MR: Well, the Internet, Photoshop and I are totally inseparable! That is probably why I think in computer-ish way so much. But it also worries me: the relation to the to virtual world and the separation from the reality. I design all my textile prints in Photoshop and when I do, I try to not check my Facebook page. Big effort!



DM: The idea of using the computer interface is an emerging trend in art (http://rhizome.org/editorial/2012/ aug/3/interface-aesthetics). Is your collection an attempt to adapt this art trend into fashion or is it a coincidence?
MR: It is well known that all thoughts are in the air. In my opinion this idea of integration of computer interfaces in our everyday life and furthermore in clothes is very natural. It is all about us, our generation, it’s happening here and now.



DM: It’s the first time that I see a collection taking inspiration of the Internet and computer in such a sophisticate and beautiful way. Usually it’s always used in a very 90’s voluntary tacky kind of way. What was the inspiration for this collection? Why did you mix digital aesthetics with romantic flower prints?
MR: I imagined my own hero. My hero would be walking through beautiful botanical garden; his/her clothes would be reflecting the mood of the time. The prints look like a quick mood-boards made with help of computer. The collection emphasizes on our relation to nature today. I have a nostalgic perception of it.



DM: How do you think the Internet and new technologies are going to transform fashion?
MR: Fashion has always been reflecting the world and its mood and it will keep doing it forever. In Fashion history books in the future, our generation will be mentioned as the Internet-generation. Hard to say in which way transformations are going to be felt and seen. There is already a big influence of the virtual in the way we are now presenting and buying fashion collections.


DM: Favorite blogs?
MR: I am not so much into blogs but I like to check this one: http://psycheau.tumblr.com/



DM: What’s next for Masha Reva?
MR: To get as much as possible from my student experience in London!






Interview by Dora Moutot for Triangulation Blog - December 2012 
Dora Moutot is a young journalist specialized in fashion within the digital culture. She is the founder of La Gazette du Mauvais Gout where she writes about bad taste, eccentric and kitsch trends. www.doramauvaisgout.tumblr.com



Tuesday, September 18, 2012

THE ITERATION by Lisa Shahno



THE ITERATION, (collection) 2012 by Lisa Shahno_
"The collection is inspired by the Fractal Cosmology theory which maintains the structure of the universe to be of the fractal nature and the universe itself to be infinite in any direction. A fractal is a kind of geometric shape which can be divided into parts, each at least approximately a reduced-size semblance of the whole, or a self-similar shape. According to the theory, there is a hierarchical organization (or nesting) of matter - from the elementary particles to the clusters off galaxies, with three main levels: atomic, astral and galactic. So the central issue of Fractal Cosmology is that the universe may consist of infinite number of levels which are similar to each other but different in scale - thereby there could be no "smallest" nor "largest" scales - the whole observable universe can be enclosed inside a molecule of some larger-scale universe and at the same time an atom may contain another world with its own galaxies, stars and inhabited planets..."  See more;

"Models of the collection represent a variety of matter levels in the universe. All pieces' patterns are composed of the one repeating basic element - the square divided by diagonals - an elementary particle, but each model has a different scale and number of particles involved." - Lisa Shahno.


Grid I (Fractal dimension = 1)
Catwalk speed ( V ) = 15 cm/second




Grid II (Fractal dimension = 0,5)
V = 30 cm/second




Grid III (Fractal dimension = 0,33) 
V = 50 cm/second




Grid IIII (Fractal dimension = 0,14) 
V = 100 cm/second




Grid V (Fractal dimension = 0,14)
V = 100 cm/second






Grid VI (Fractal dimension = 0,12)
V = 150 cm/second





Grid VII (Fractal dimension = 0,12)
V = 150 cm/second



Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Manon Kündig



Manon Kündig is a 29-year-old Swiss fashion designer who very recently graduated from the Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Arts. Her master 2012 graduate menswear collection called ” Bowerbird” is full of digital prints and acid colours. Photoshop is probably one of the most important tools of her collection and she confesses being completely addicted to online research. Like the bird, she was inspired by to create her collection, bird stealing rubbish to create its nest; Manon stole Google images to create her prints. We asked Manon about her work and the relationship between the Internet and her collections. See more;

▼ Read the interview ▼

Dora Moutot (DM) interviews Manon Kündig (MK) / Click imges to enlarge_

DM: You just graduated from the MA fashion design of the school of Antwerp. How many years did you study? How was it studying in Antwerp and having Walter van Beirendonck as a teacher?
MK: It was really nice to study in Antwerp. I did the 4 years course in 5 years because I did somehow lose sight of my priorities due to love and fun. Studying seems like having a full time job, but I like to be versatile and still have a life. There is no way for me to be completely dedicated to my work in an academical way. I think this was my strength. Also I have a really lazy side that I fully love and accept. I mean lazy in action not in brainwork. Or maybe better said; going out can still be considered as work for me. I was lucky to meet teachers that could understand my different way of dealing with planning and leaving me free (not without worries) to do my thing. Walter is a great mentor. He gave me lots of motivation. Dirk van Saene also had a great input and I really enjoyed the complete freedom and trust of this final year. I think this school makes you definitely strong and makes you believe in your capacity. I also need to add that studying in Antwerp stays really democratic. The fee is low in comparison to other “top” schools and the quality of life is mild.




DM: Your collections are always very surreal and theatrical. What is your fantasy world about? Where do you get your inspirations?
MK: My inspiration comes from things I live or discover. I mainly need to be fully convinced, intrigued and passionate about a topic.




DM: I read that you were inspired by mohair fetishism while designing a micro- collection during your time at school. To me, your BA collection Blowjob looked like it was inspired by inflatable fetishism and black metal culture and your MA collection called Bowerbird looked very inspired by the digital art niche and the actual Internet aesthetic. You work seems very inspired by fetish, niche and alternative culture. Do you research these cultures online?
MK: You are completely right and I am completely addicted to online research. You must agree it is extremely comfortable. Surfing is the only sport I practice. My ass is made to sit. My back has slowly a bump. I even got a nerve blocked in my left wrist because of my position while smoking and using the computer. Fetish and “subcultures” are indeed giving me a great source of motivation and fascination. I do like the particular and hope being particular myself too.




DM: Why did you call your last collection Bowerbird? What is the story behind the collection? And why do you choose to do menswear?
MK: I do menswear because it is easy. Or maybe I can't really handle the female fashion world as it exists. It would be a really different approach. I am actually slowly feeling ready for it.

A Bowerbird is a bird. I did discover it thanks to David Attenborough, (this bird)  It was too good to not be used. It gave me so much freedom. I could act like a bird and make a collection where everything is possible and imaginable. The aesthetic of the bird has no hierarchy. Rubbish can be beauty. A cocktail. The bird picks whatever is in his surrounding. It is what I did or always do. Therefore there are lots of stolen google images. The Bowerbird is a commune looking small brown bird acting like a peacock with his material goods. This behaviour is really close to the macho-male showing off his car and t-shirt with a brand-tag. I live in this kind of neighbourhood. Borgerhout. Borgerhout is called borgerocco in Antwerp slang. The hood is majority Moroccan. I love the eclectic mix that can be seen between the more traditional garments and the “megastore” clothes. A cocktail like I said.Cheap fake fur bed rugs mixed with real snake skin. Posh silk with nasty polyester. Digital prints with handmade marbling prints.




DM: Your last collection seems to be very inspired by the digital art/ digital fashion niche. The “headscarf all over the body thing” became an online trend that spread on Tumblr this year. The first time I saw something like that was on the website of the headscarf designer Killian Loddo. I also remember a shoot from Dis magazine called Patter recognition with the same idea. What are you thoughts about social medias, ideas and aesthetics travelling online? How important is the Internet in your creative process?
MK: I had no idea of these online trends because I don't like to start from a fashion point of view and barely look at it. I should actually, I guess, to be aware of the actual moment but I don't, because I feel somehow I would get parasited in my working process. My online research is clearly not on fashionable sides. It is the “real” aspect that fascinates me. For the head scarves I actually also “stole” the idea from a silk fetish thing going on Flickr, it is damn serious. There is a fetish for almost everything. Also the Bowerbird hides himself behind his bower when the female comes to have a look and chooses a mate. I wanted no body or physical aspect to be seen. No human, a pile of information for the eyes. I actually feel sad when something like the mohair fetish is showcased on a website like vice (just to name one). I guess I am selfish. I don't feel part of the internet community, I am a voyeur. But I also use the internet to learn absolutely everything I want. I mean techniques. People are nice to share their knowledge.




DM: How did you design design each prints? What is the process? What kind of techniques do you use?
MK: For the digital prints Photoshop was a great tool with absolutely no limits. I do like the possibility to get this strong acid colours feeling. I enjoyed losing track of time behind a computer. I even bought a new one that I call my Rolls-Royce to be able to work with these big files. Also I am not a graphic designer, which makes my computer work even more crappy and my files heavy for nothing. I like crappy. I even printed on silk watermarks from Internet images, which I think is nice. When I was 20 I was allergic to computers and it is why I chose fashion and not graphic design when entering in art school. Funny how I changed. Now I was happy to escape behind a screen for hours. You become autistic. I also used marbling. Marbling is the same technique used in the covers of really old books. It is full of surprises, never two times the same. It was exiting. Also because of the dimension of the silk pieces I printed. It was a challenge. You basically make a size filled with gelatine made from cooking Irish moss. Then you drop paint with the consistency of milk on the surface of this viscous liquid. The paint should float and different patterns can be drawn by making waves with combs or sticks. Then you can finally lay on the surface the fabric that must have been pre-treated and transfer the actual print.




DM: What do you want to do next? Are you planning on designing a new collection? What is your dream job?
MK: I would like to create a new collection and still work for a big house in parallel. Getting my clothes into production is the dream. For sure I will continue working around prints because I am convinced by the hypnotic power of it and its endless possibilities. I will also continue participating to happenings within an all girl collective called LVMM, which is a great project and gives me lots of joy.








Interview by Dora Moutot for Triangulation Blog - August 2012 
Dora Moutot is a young journalist specialized in fashion within the digital culture. She is the founder of La Gazette du Mauvais Gout where she writes about bad taste, eccentric and kitsch trends. www.doramauvaisgout.tumblr.com